Document Title: [Tron to Satans Hollow.html (html file)]

First things first. Satans Hollow and Tron have quite a bit in common, and they have almost as many differences. My situation was this: I have a Satans hollow fullsize control panel (with controls), a fullsize tron control panel with controls, and a mini tron control panel without controls. I've got 2 Bally/Midway MCR/II board sandwiches. One with Tron eproms, the other with Satan's Hollow eproms.

Needless to say, the tron mini cabinet had/has a tron wiring harness.

1) processor boards (the board sandwich):
    easy switch.  unplug the tron boards, plug in the satans 
    hollow boards.  Any control changes will be made at the 
    control panel harness area.  You could just replace the 
    roms in a tron machine with satans hollow roms if you like,
    but you'll still have to modify the control panel wiring.
    (tron & SH look for their player controls in different 
    locations. ie: joystick for tron is wired to J5 where in
    SH it's wired to J4.

2) control panel
    I decided to take the controls directly out of the satans hollow
    control panel and install them directly into the tron mini control
    panel.  easier said than done.  First, you have to remove the 
    old tron controls (which my CP didn't have.)  You're going to
    need a security allen wrench (not torx) to take the joystick
    controller apart.  seperate the 2 halves.  Use a small phillips
    to take the trigger switch mechanism off of the stick.  (when
    you re-assemble the stick, be sure to not screw these in too
    tight - the plastic seems to break easily -- on the 3 sticks 
    i've seen, 2 were cracked, one was broken.
    As for the spinner -- i have no clue how to remove the spinner
    knob from the shaft.  Both of these devices (joystick & spinner)
    are held in with 4 3/8" nuts each.  Remove these, and the 1 & 2
    player start buttons from the tron cp.
    
    The wiring for the SH parts needed to change.  There was not enough
    room for all of the SH controls, so i improvised.  The spinner hole
    is the right size for a new Happ microswitch pushbutton (but
    unfortunately, not the old style leaf-switch pushbutton.  I 
    de-soldered the 2 "Shield" leaf switches, and soldered on a new
    yellow Happ switch.  (the second set of wires i covvered with
    electrical tape to keep them from shorting into something)
    
    The mechanical connections were sooo close.  As i said before, 
    the 1p & 2p buttons went right into their respective holes,
    and the shield button had to be updated to fit in its new
    home.  The joystick (a 2-way stick) had to have some more 
    work done to it.  At first glance, you'd think it'd just fit
    right in.  4 screws in the control panel, don't line up with the
    4 holes in the control panel.  bummer. So I hack-sawed notches 
    from the screw holes on one side of the joystick chassis to 
    the edge of the stick (i'll put pictures of this on my website 
    eventually).  2 of the bolts go through the proper holes on the
    stick, able to be mounted properly.  The other 2 end up sitting 
    in the newly cut notches.  that finishes that.
    
3) wiring harness. (gotta love molex connectors... hehe)
    This was the most risky part for me.  i wasn't quite sure how
    i was going to do it until i had already started doing it. :}
    
    I have the wiring diagrams for both Tron & Satans Hollow so I 
    traced through the wires needed to see what i had.  I was in luck.
    the wires i needed for satans hollow were in one of the 2 wiring
    harnesses for the spinner or tron stick.  The wires i needed
    were there. I carefully removed all the pins from both molex 
    connectors at the control panel end in the machine.  I did
    this by sticking a pair of cheap needlenose pliers into the socket 
    end of each pin, and carefully pushing.  With just a little pressure,
    the pins came out.  (I practiced this on a soon to be unused 
    pin).  Luckilly, Bally/Midway was smart in that the color codes 
    used for the wiring harnesses here are based on the pins on 
    the board sandwich, not the function of the pin. (if you are
    converting a tron to be a SH, but want it to be quickly
    interchangable then this is not what you want to do... it worked 
    for my use!)
    So all you need to do now is line up the colors.  green with 
    black stripe,  red with blue stripe, etc... 
    i put the unused socket pins into the other (larger) molex 
    connector, to keep them out of trouble. :)
    incidently, I did trace the wire colord through just to be sure that
    there were no anomolies.  I didn't want to trust that the wires i
    needed were the correct colors...  but they were.
    
here are the color codes for the controls:
(color codes & pinouts taken from the schematics in the users manuals)

DO note that all other connections to all other boards are the same
between the two of them...

pin		Color 		tron function		satans hollow function
J4  1		BR-W		1 coin sw		i coin sw
J4  2		BR-B		2 coin sw		2 coin sw
J4  3		BLU-W		Select 1 Player	Select 1 Player
J4  4		BLU-B		Select 2 Player	Select 2 Player
J4  5		B-Y		1 P fire
J4  6		BLU-Y		Tilt sw		Tilt sw
J4  7		W-O		Service sw		Service sw
J4  8		O-W		Test sw		Test sw
J4  9		Y-R		sw return		sw return (controls)
J4  10		R-W		spinner D0		1 P Move left
J4  11		W-R		spinner D1		1 P Move right
J4  12		B-G		spinner D2		1 P Shield 
J4  13		G-B		spinner D3		1 P Fire 
J4  14		*Key*
J4  15		O-G(R-BLU)	spinner D4		2 P Move left
J4  16		BLU-R(Y-W)	spinner D5		2 P Move right 
J4  17		GRY-R(PURP)	spinner D6		2 P Shield 
J4  18		BLK-BLU				2 P Fire
J4  19 	Y		sw return		sw return(tlt, svce, tst)


J5  1		PINK		1 P Move Left
J5  2		BLU-R		1 P Move Right
J5  3		O-G		1 P Move Up
J5  4		R-G		1 P Move Down

J5  19		*Key*
J5  20		W-BRN		coin meter return	coin meter return
J5  21		W-Y		coin meter		coin meter

J6  (only used in coctail version of tron for the encoder wheel)